by Ericka O'Rourke
When we first started getting the Mill Annex ready for The Copper Frog, we had quite a bit of work to transform the space which had been beaten up pretty badly by being used as a construction office for the bridge reconstruction project. We decided to tear up the mud caked commercial carpet and start from scratch. I had a specific look in my mind that I really wanted to create to go with my natural and organic vision for the gallery.
 |
| Paper bag floor in The Copper Frog |
A handcrafted paper-bag floor fit the bill perfectly! I would be able to go right over the existing sub-floor and it would work wonderfully with any irregularities in the floor. It would be durable, hide dirt, be easily cleaned, and most of all, would give me the look I wanted.
While somewhat labor intensive, putting down the paper bag floor was a relatively simple and inexpensive process. The most expensive part was the polyurethane needed to seal it. The amount you needs depends on your square footage. I used at least 7 gallons for the gallery floor which is roughly 48 ft by 19 ft.
Here's what you'll need
- paper bags or rolls of kraft brown bag paper (enough to cover your area with plenty of overlapping)
- gallon or more of white glue
- 5 gallon bucket for making glue mixture (50glue/50water)
- Water-based polyurethane.
- Optional * roller on pole, paint roller grate and 5 gallon bucket to hold poly while rolling. Applying the poly using these materials really saved a ton of time.
- Optional* grit additive for final layer of poly if texture is preferred. I found the floor to be ultra slippery and so this step was a necessity for the gallery. I picked up 1 bag of this additive that you mix directly into a gallon of poly at the hardware store for $5.
- Optional - water-based wood stain and rags to add a nice final aging and bring out the textures.
To start, you'll want to tear brown paper bags or rolls of brown paper. Keep the pieces with the straight edges on them for the perimeter of the room. Crumple
the ripped paper into a ball for texture and dip the pieces of brown paper in a 50/50
mixture of white glue and water . . . I used the large gallons of Elmer's and mixed a huge batch in a 5 gallon bucket so I could easily dip my crumpled up paper and wring it out right in the bucket. This part was very messy and fun! Spread the wet paper on the floor
surface and smooth out any air bubbles as best as possible.
One interesting thing I noted, was that a higher glue content in your glue/water mixture did highlight and bring out the wrinkles in the paper while a higher water content left a more flat less wrinkled look when dry. Functionally both worked fine though. The higher glue content also took longer to dry.
Keep overlapping the paper with the glue mixture until you have your entire area covered. Now is the time to be patient and let this layer really dry. An important note here is, that no matter how smooth the paper was when you first put it down, as it dries, it will bubble up all over the place. It will look horrible and you will be sure that you messed something up. Trust me, this is just part of the drying process! It will recede back down and look completely smooth and flat all on its own. Do not do anything, just let it be. Make sure to let it dry completely. I let our floor dry for 2 weeks, but I am sure it would not need that long.
After your base is all dry, you can begin with your first sealing coat of polyurethane. Make sure to used a water-based as there is something in the oil-based that is not compatible with this process and it doesn't work as well. Not to mention, you can avoid breathing in the fumes. The first coat will get sucked in like a sponge, and the second...but after that, you should start to see your gloss taking hold and the poly will start to go on a lot quicker and will not require nearly as much to cover the same area as the first 2 coats. The more coats, they quicker they slide on. I ended up doing about 8 coats all over and put a grit in the final coat. While my kids were really enjoying breakdancing on the floor, I knew it was an accident waiting to happen to an unlucky customer. The grit worked wonderfully.
I decided I wanted more variation in value and color on the floor, so I used a water-based wood stain and just lightly rubbed it around to accent the perimeter of the floor and randomly all over the room. The stain gave the floor the aged look I wanted as well as brought out the wrinkles and edges in the paper.
We have been walking and dragging stuff across this floor for about 6 months now and it is holding up wonderfully! I'll probably do a quick coat of poly to maintain the finish once a year, but that is because of the high traffic. Overall I am extremely happy we opted for this technique and would definitely recommend this as a flooring option.